The Downtime Guide to Washington, D.C.The best coffee shops, bookstores, and hidden gems according to people who live there.
Created in partnership with Sézane and written and edited by Eliza Brooke. Before I moved to Washington, D.C., I simply did not understand how beautiful spring could be. That sounds silly, but it’s true: This city exits winter with more exuberance than I ever thought possible. The weather is breezy and mild, people amble down the street in their cutest warm weather looks carrying cold brews and ice cream cones, and sidewalk planters fill with hyacinths, tulips, and daffodils. That’s to say nothing of the famous cherry blossoms, a gift from Japan that turns the city into a soft-focus wonderland for a few weeks every year. Sézane, which is sponsoring today’s newsletter, couldn’t have picked a better time to open its first permanent store in D.C. After the success of its local pop-up last year, the Parisian brand has put down roots at 1242 Wisconsin Ave NW, in the heart of historic Georgetown. (Fun fact: The store is just around the corner from Martin’s Tavern, where JFK proposed to Jackie.) Sézane brings a dollop of Parisian style to a city with deep ties to French culture — Pierre Charles L’Enfant’s urban plan for D.C. was inspired by Paris and Versailles, after all. To ring in Sézane’s arrival in Georgetown, Alisha asked me to assemble an elite task force of cool and cultured D.C. women — novelists, pastry chefs, interior designers, and art experts — to share their recommendations for all the best spots in the city, from restaurants and coffee shops to bookstores and museums. Because here’s the thing: D.C. may be best known for its political drama, but it’s also a town full of incredible food, world-class art, and some of the most intelligent, engaged people you’ll ever meet. Bookmark the Downtime Guide to D.C. for your next trip. And if you’re trying to figure out what to wear while knocking around D.C. in the springtime, may I suggest Sézane’s embroidered Maxy shirt or Mirza dress? — Eliza Brooke, culture writer and author of The Scumbler, a weekly newsletter dedicated to movies, design, and creative people
Where to stayThe Line: “The only hotel I’ve ever stayed at in D.C. is The Line, and I dream of a return. The rooms are gorgeous, the view is the best you can get, and it’s walking distance to the Metro and on an excellent bus route (the D74 is the best).” — Lily Meyer, staff writer at The Atlantic, book critic, and novelist (The End of Romance, Short War) The Hay-Adams: “It has one of the most extraordinary locations in Washington, directly overlooking the White House and Lafayette Square. The rooms feel timeless, and having a drink in the Off the Record bar downstairs is practically a D.C. rite of passage — equal parts elegant and mischievous. Be prepared to peep some politicos as you sip your martini.” — Melissa Colgan, founder of Melissa Colgan Interiors The Jefferson: “One of the most beautiful boutique hotels in the city, filled with rich architectural details and quietly luxurious interiors. It feels intimate and refined, almost like staying in a very sophisticated private residence.” — Melissa Colgan Riggs Washington D.C.: “I love the bar at Riggs. It’s my favorite spot for daydreaming, life strategizing, and feeling like I’m in a rom-com.” — Bsrat Mezghebe, novelist (I Hope You Find What You’re Looking For) Embassy Suites: “My in-laws are obsessed with the made-to-order omelet bar at Embassy Suites by the Convention Center!” — Annie Yi, writer at the National Gallery of Art and contributor to the cult newsletter 730DC
Where to eatHitching Post: “The best fried chicken in the city. You must get their cornbread. Non-optional. Don’t share.” — Lily Meyer Qui Qui DC: “Great mofongo, rice and beans, and all the proteins. I used to work with the chef, and it’s been fun to see his restaurant grow from a pop-up inside a bar to a brick-and-mortar. It’s good for a casual meal or a date night.” — Alicia Wang, executive pastry chef at Albi, Yellow, and La’ Shukran Namak: “There are a lot of Turkish restaurants vying for supremacy in D.C., and I’m here to tell you that Namak in Adams Morgan is it. All of their flavors are dialed in. You can throw a dart anywhere on the menu and have an epic time.” — Annie Yi Chez Billy Sud: “It feels like a little corner of Paris tucked into Georgetown. I love the charming, romantic dining room, which is bathed in warm green paint and covered with antique oil paintings. The classic French dishes make this the perfect place for a long dinner with friends or a cozy date night.” — Melissa Colgan Osteria Mozza: “Brings a little slice of California-meets-Italy glamour to Georgetown. The high ceilings, enclosed courtyard, and interior design by Roman & Williams ensure your eyes will be just as pleased as your palate.” — Melissa Colgan Keren: “For authentic Eritrean breakfast and hospitality. (Plus, Albi for fantastic Palestinian-inspired fine dining and Rakuya for its delicious coconut curry udon soup that I can’t find anywhere else.)” — Bsrat Mezghebe La Tejana: “I won’t shut up about this place, because a perfect day in D.C. begins with a couple of the exquisite breakfast tacos at La Tejana in Mount Pleasant. The owners have a great love story, too.” — Eliza Brooke
Where to get great coffee and pastriesSoleluna: “Does Soleluna pour the last affordable latte in the city? Sometimes I doublefist with their orange juice, squeezed to order. Their drinks are great, and their laminated pastry is even better: The sun-dried tomato and pesto monkey bread is made of a bunch of croissants squished together!” — Annie Yi “If caffeine sends you into space, as it does for me, Soleluna sells the best decaf espresso I’ve ever had. It tastes like the real thing, which is rare.” — Eliza Brooke Sharbat: “For lovely Azerbaijani treats.” — Bzrat Mezghebe Manifest Bread: “If you’re down to take a bit of a trip, go to Manifest Bread in Riverdale Park, get some coffee and cookies, and hang out or walk around the neighborhood until you’re hungry again. Then get barbecue at 2fifty. Perfect day.” — Lily Meyer Seylou: “One of the most thoughtful bakeries in the city, with a proud focus on heritage grains and beautifully crafted breads and pastries. I was so hooked on their blueberry muffins when I was newly postpartum that I had my husband making near-daily trips for fresh-from-the-oven deliciousness.” — Melissa Colgan Handcraft Doughnuts: “I always go to Handcraft Doughnuts inside Union Market. I usually get the buttermilk doughnut, but when summer fruits start to come in, they’ll do great flavors like blueberry cheesecake.” — Alicia Wang
Where to drinkJane Jane: “A tiny jewel box of a cocktail bar where every detail — from the glassware to the wallpaper to the lighting — feels thoughtful and transportive. It’s cozy, glamorous, and the perfect spot for meeting friends for a cocktail.” — Melissa Colgan Gold Clover Bar: “My fave neighborhood bar is Gold Clover Bar in Bloomingdale. Immaculate vibes and service are courtesy of Toine Jameson. I go where he goes.” — Bsrat Mezghebe 2 Amys: “You could go to 2 Amys for their excellent Neapolitan pizza alone, but it’s also one of favorite places to have my semi-annual glass of wine. The cheeky descriptions on the wine list always make me laugh: ‘A crunchy little red that sings well beyond its range,’ ‘A color any three year old will adore,” etc.” — Eliza Brooke Gemini: “My ideal date night involves stopping by Gemini for a glass of natural wine, a plate of pasta, and a scoop of the best ice cream in the city. (Seriously.) If you don’t know what to drink, ask your friendly neighborhood wine man, Eric Moorer, for help. He does not miss with his recommendations!” Bar Providencia: “I’m not a huge drinker, but it’s chill, the drinks are really fun, and you can get a great bite to eat there.” — Alicia Wang The Raven: “I like a bar to be a bit scuzzy. My thing is a beer at The Raven after dinner in Mount Pleasant at Ellē, Bar del Monte, Martha Dear, or Purple Patch. That said, a glass of wine at the bar at San Matteo, while not scuzzy, is also a very nice treat.” — Lily Meyer
Things to see and doThe East Wing of the National Gallery: “Its rotating shows are unfailingly great, but I will never, ever get tired of its modern and contemporary art collection.” — Lily Meyer Kreeger Museum: “For something off the National Mall circuit, check out the Kreeger Museum — it’s a jewel box of an International Style building with gorgeous grounds and a lovely, compact collection of European paintings.” — Annie Yi Dumbarton Oaks: “Dumbarton Oaks is one of the most magical places in Washington — a series of terraced gardens tucked quietly into Georgetown. In spring, when the wisteria and cherry blossoms bloom, it’s one of the most beautiful walks in the city.” — Melissa Colgan Glenstone: “If you’re up for a trip to nearby Potomac, Maryland, the Glenstone is an unbelievable (and under-the-radar) contemporary art destination. The sweeping grounds are dotted with sculptures by Jeff Koons and Richard Serra, and the indoor galleries house works by Jackson Pollock, Kerry James Marshall, and Cindy Sherman.” — Eliza Brooke Rock Creek Park: “I have two dogs, so if the weather’s good, we’re doing a hike. I really like Rock Creek Park, which is huge, but Turkey Run is really fun as well. Great Falls has some nice hikes, too.” — Alicia Wang East Potomac Park and the National Mall: “Daytime walks at East Potomac Park. Nighttime strolls around the National Mall (even better on a scooter).” — Bsrat Mezghebe
Where to shopLost City Books: “My favorite bookstore in D.C. is Lost City Books, in Adams Morgan. (Politics and Prose is a close second.) Its selection, both new and used, cannot be beat; the owners and booksellers are the nicest; and their collection of rare used books is a museum to me.” — Lily Meyer Bridge Street Books: “A true neighborhood gem tucked just off M Street in Georgetown. It has that slightly hidden, intellectual feel I love in a bookstore, with a carefully curated selection that rewards slow browsing.” — Melissa Colgan Sézane: “The latest addition to Georgetown’s vibrant shopping scene! If I were you, here’s what I’d do: browse Sézane’s Parisian-inspired collection, then head up the street to get your French lunch fix at Boulangerie Christophe. You can’t go wrong with their baguette sandwiches and pastries.” — Eliza Brooke
Kramers: “Kramers, the bookstore, holds a special place in my heart. They have a great selection for adults and kids, plus a cafe with comfort food.” — Bsrat Mezghebe Sankofa: “Sankofa is a D.C. institution for Afrocentric books, lectures, and film screenings founded by the legendary filmmaking couple, Haile Gerima and Shirikiana Aina.” — Bsrat Mezghebe Wonderland Books: “I was ecstatic when our neighborhood finally got an indie bookstore of its own last year. The owners do a wonderful job in programming author talks, and the children’s section is small but mighty. A favorite place for us to browse for books and gifts.” — Alisha Ramos, creator of Downtime [sneaking in a last minute rec!]
Bold Fork Books: “I think I did all of my Christmas shopping at this cookbook store in Mount Pleasant — all of my cooks got a cookbook for the holidays. Everyone who works there is so nice, and they have such good events.” — Alicia Wang Secondi: “For clothes, I never get more compliments than on the few designer pieces I have scooped up for nothing at Secondi, a consignment store in Dupont Circle.” — Lily Meyer Mercedes Bien: “If you stumble upon a building in Adams Morgan with a cast iron balcony that looks transplanted from New Orleans, you’ve found the chic vintage purveyor Mercedes Bien. The owner has great taste in both men’s and womenswear and a wealth of knowledge about fabric and fit that she’s more than happy to share.” — Annie Yi Manse: “A beautifully curated Georgetown shop filled with antiques, objects, and pieces that feel timeless rather than trendy. It’s often where I pop in to pick up a gift for a friend or to get some last minute pieces to accessorize our clients’ homes.” — Melissa Colgan
Hidden gemsNational Arboretum: “People don’t talk enough about the Arboretum! It’s huge, and there’s a Bonsai exhibit inside. It’s my dogs’ happy place, so it’s mine, too.” — Alicia Wang Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens: “Walking through floating flowers on a snaky wooden boardwalk? Magical.” — Lily Meyer Tregaron Conservancy: “A forest sanctuary within the city (it’s also where my husband Nik proposed to me!). Grab a breakfast sandwich from Cracked Eggery in Cleveland Park, then walk down Macomb and enjoy the wooded trails and lily pond.” — Annie Yi The Peacock Room at the National Museum of Asian Art: “Created by the painter James McNeill Whistler, this enveloping work of interior design-slash-art was originally a dining room in London. It’s gorgeous, with blue-green walls and gold leaf paintings. It was also the subject of a big fight between Whistler and his patron, Frederick Leyland.” — Eliza Brooke Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial Library: “It went through a recent, stunning renovation. The rooftop has amazing views. There’s a fun indoor slide that’s just for kids, but you might be able to sneak down it (I did).” — Bsrat Mezghebe
Enjoy D.C., and drop your own local recommendations in the comments section! You’re currently a free subscriber to Downtime. If you love what you read and discover here, consider upgrading to paid for the full experience and get access to exclusive subscriber-only content. THANK YOU!
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